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Thursday, April 18, 2013

Culinary delights

I mentioned last time that I'd like to expand on some of the nuances of life here in the Philippines. So what better way to begin than by examining one of staples of Filipino culture: food.

Always around. Always plentiful. Sometimes expensive (fruits and vegetables depending on the season). Sometimes extremely cheap (breads and local snacks). 5 meals a day. That's right...5. Breakfast, morning merienda (snack), lunch, afternoon merienda, and dinner. And always on time...when home cooked. "Filipino time" usually causes activities and events to be pushed back. If a meeting is set to start at 8 AM, it likely won't begin til 9 or 10 when participants show up. This is NOT the case with eating. If it's noon it's lunchtime. 7 PM usually marks dinnertime at my house. I have tried toying with these (i.e. working til 1 PM before heading home for lunch), but that usually results in colder food since it probably has been sitting on the table waiting for me.

Bicol is known for its spicy food. Most dishes have "sili" chili peppers with them. Mmmmm masarap ("delicious" in tagalog; trademark phrase from PCV Russ). I've found, at least with home cooking, that there are really only 6-8 traditional dishes, all with interchangeable parts. Change in vegetables. Fish vs. pork vs. chicken. Different sauces. Fried vs. boiled vs. sauteed. This varies throughout the Philippines though and I'm sure some volunteers would disagree with me.

Another culinary term that I'll elaborate more on in a future post is palutan. These are snacks served while consuming alcohol. It could be anything from a bag of chips to sisig (see below) to a whole fried fish. Many restaurants or bars will even serve complimentary palutan when a bucket of beer is purchased.

Rice, or kanin, is served with every meal. And often meals cannot be eaten without rice being present. I've cut down on my rice intake (hence why my waistline has shrunk), but still find it necessary to have a small amount with every meal. Weird but I can't really eat ulam (the main dish besides the rice) without it.

Now for some specifics...

Other staple foods: fish, pork, chicken, beef (rarity), squash, eggplant, tomatoes, onions, mung beans, okra, carrots, mangos, bananas, pineapples, apples, papayas, and coconuts.

Native Philippine items: kamote (similar to a sweet potato), petchay (chinese cabbage), kangkong (water spinach), sili (hot chili peppers), ampalaya (bitter gourd), rambutan (sweet, "spiky" fruit), langka (jackfruit), durian (extremely smelly!), balimbing (star fruit), guyabano (soursops), kalamansi (philippine lime; MUCH better than regular limes and can be put with virtually anything; also goes very well with tequila), dalandan (green orange), bayabas (guava), lansones, and yellow watermelon.

And finally, some local delicacies that I have had the "privilege" of trying (I have made it a goal to try everything at least once here):
- balut = fertilized duck embryo eating in the egg shell (I recommend eating this with the lights off)
- dinuguan = pig intestines, lungs, kidneys, etc. in a sauce of pig blood, chili, and vinegar (very grainy texture; consume after slightly inebriated)
- sisig = parts of pig face mixed with chili, kalamansi, and sometimes egg (often a palutan; one of my favorites!)
- calabao = water buffalo (extremely fatty)
- bicol express = very spicy stew made with some type of meat (usually pork), lots of sili, and coconut milk
- lechon = roasted suckling pig

Still haven't had dog and don't plan to unless I'm tricked into it or it's placed in front on me...

I'm planning on experimenting more with these ingredients when I move to my new apartment next month. If you're interested, see if you can find any of these items in your local supermarket's (Wegmans) international section.

Sunday, April 7, 2013

Progress

Veterinarian. Architect. Photographer. Optometrist. Growing up, all of these crossed my mind at some point as potential career paths. I received my first veterinary book and look-a-like nutcracker as a Christmas gift way back in Penfield, probably when I was 9 or 10. I took a summer architecture course during high school, and I was locked into becoming an eye doctor up until Junior year of college. My own path, or, as this blog is appropriately titled, camino (a reference to the walk my Dad took almost 12 years ago), continually finds its way to add a new turn. I am no longer surprised, when I reflect back, to see the interesting situations I've gotten myself into here in the Philippines. They now seem like daily occurrences.

So it comes with no shock that I am now a certified SCUBA diver. Yes, this was not even on my radar screen two years ago. SCUBA diver? Andrew Wynne? You must be joking. The thought never crossed my mind...until I was assigned as a CRM volunteer in the Philippines. So here I was a month ago now observing an underwater paradise I'd only seen in dreams and the discovery channel. Couple that with one of the most pristine coral reef areas in the Philippines (Jagna, Bohol), 4 great friends, and some great Filipino food. Our last dive gave us the chance to observe a coral wall in a nearby MPA literally dropping off into an infinite abyss. After this past week, I have reached double digit dives. PC gave CRM volunteers the opportunity to become Reef Check certified, a tool that we can bring back to our communities in order to effectively manage, study and monitor the health of coral reefs. Mabini, Batangas, near the Verde Island Passage (one of the largest centers of biodiversity in the world), has been our home for the week.  On our third dive I was fortunate enough to see 2 SEA TURTLES, one green and one hawksbill!! Surreal experience. And such a relaxing activity. Unforeseen to fantasy to reality. I unfortunately do not have an underwater camera (yet...) but photos can be found on Facebook.

I checked another item off my new found bucket list in late February: swimming with whale sharks. Now, the name and the size (the whale shark is the largest living non-mammalian vertebrate) of these seemingly mythical giants is enough to discourage many from getting too close. But a bit more research with reveal them to be filter feeders, relying many on a diet of plankton. After spending 3 hours roaming the waters, our boat (myself, along with PCVs Russ, Dan, Chelsea, and Kathryn) started heading back to shore. My rash guard blew away in the breeze and our boat captain circled back to look for it...lost cause. Turned out to be a good omen though. While I lost my rash guard, our captain indicated that a whale shark had been spotted and we took off at full throttle. The experience was quite the adrenaline rush and much more intense than I anticipated. Our guide had us throw on our snorkel gear and on his signal jump in the water, throwing our faces into the deep as the "school bus" swam below. I say "school bus" because whale sharks can grow up to 40 feet long! The first one we spotted was smaller, maybe 20 feet, but as we again headed back to shore, our captain and guide spotted another one. Quite a lucky day! This time was even better since we were the only boat around. Russ, Dan, and I plunged back in with our guide, revealing a full grown whale shark 30 feet long! I felt like I could reach out and touch him, but after a few seconds he commenced our viewing by descending out of sight. The thrill on our guides face as we popped out of the water was amazing. Malaking malaki (very big) he yelled . He has been taking tourists our for over 20 years, yet he still gets a rush each day from sharing his environment with others.

Really quickly, let me return to my life at site as I have had some interesting developments these past few weeks. After returning from Bohol, the materials for my aquaponics project finally arrived!!!  I had been waiting for these for months now (not a surprise..), so it was a relief to be able to move forward with our plans. Continuing to keep my expectations low though. Just happy some progress has been made!  My office has a grain center and nursery set up in an upland barangay, so we are planning to construct the system there since it will be more feasible for daily monitoring. It is also the site of the future City Agriculture Office, which we hope will be finished by Christmas. I have also received some support from the local university, Bicol University Tabaco Campus (BUTC), for monitoring and evaluating the system after construction is completed.

Additionally, ideas have been flowing for my Master's thesis/internship. I am hoping to focus my work on city river restoration and management, specifically working with BUTC and the local SKs (sangguniang kabataan, or youth councils) to provide solid waste management options and reduce nutrient overload into the nearby marine environments (mangroves, coral reefs, etc.). Preliminary stage only right now. But this coming week is IST (In Service Training) for PC, part of which will focus on grant writing. Hoping to get some external funding for these projects. Crossing my fingers!

I'll wrap up this life update for now. Going to play basketball with some locals now before venturing up to another part of Batangas tomorrow for IST. Although we have all had our frustrating "moments" here, each day is filled with a new adventure(s), whether that be indulging in a new food, learning a new word, traveling to a new place (never knowing how long it will take). Planning on expanding on these cultural intricacies in future posts.

Hope winter is wrapping up for all you folks in the states. I'd love to share with you some of our dry season heat!

"I'm so happy that I am alive, in one piece and short. I am in a world of shit, yes. But I am alive.  And I am not afraid..."