Journal entry

Along with this blog, I started a journal for myself when I began my Peace Corps journey last July. It started off as a daily monitoring of my happenings, before going on hiatus when dengue hit me (knock on wood; don't want round two to strike) last August. But I picked it back up again after arriving in Tabaco. The journal is a bit more raw now; a way for me to jot down something important or a thought that visits my brain. No longer an everyday occurrence. It presently sits at a whopping 49 pages (with 9 more months to go!).

I normally like to keep journal entry's to myself, using this blog as a way to expand and share various topics. But I feel compelled to share a recent entry. Background: this entry was drafted up after a previous conversation with a few other PC volunteers the night before Typhoon Haiyan struck. 

November 26, 2013 - One thought that I just remember I stated a few weeks back the night of the typhoon (not at all related but nonetheless important): “eras” or “ages” come and go without us even realizing it. Looking back on history, how many people actually realized what was happening when it was happening? Like the environmental movement in the 60s. Or even previous World Wars. Or a presidential assassination. We never know exactly how our lives are going to pan out and how the little things we see on the news or throughout our day could end up impacting our world much farther down the line. Even something like music. How much it has changed since I was a teenager. And how my tastes and preferences have changed with what happens around me. So how do we attribute the world around us to our likes and dislikes? Our passions and desires? Are we wearing masks all the time? Are we just going with the trends, afraid to partake in a paradigm shift? Or are we contributing to that change and are the trendsetters ourselves? Bottomline, there are so many external influences that subconsciously influence who we are and who we become. But staying true to your personal attributes and really knowing yourself is the most important thing you can do to differentiate and blaze new trails in a world driven by a competitive lust.

Lost in translation

I have been blessed with the ability to pick up foreign languages quickly. But to be fair, I'm not the greatest at staying motivated for retention purposes. I guess I'd like to think of myself as more of an experiential learner these days. Learning on the fly, out in the world, instead of hunched over a textbook or dictionary. And language is one of the best areas of study for this. I can walk around my city and have constant interaction. There is always someone new around, either a group of young kids walking to school or an elderly woman washing clothes. They are always mesmerized by the fact that I can converse with them in their own language (I'm fairly adept in Tagalog and have picked up a bit of the regional dialect Bicol-Albay from locals). The problem I have is that despite my persistence with Tagalog, a majority of these conversations always resort back to English.

I have asked myself over and over again, "why is this?" American influence back in the early 20th Century? English taught in schools? Their perceptions of me as an English-speaking westerner? Translation problems? Sure, all of these play a role. But when it comes down to it, English is commonly seen as a universal language in our world today (although not by all countries). It's also a way for them to practice their skills, and for many, as a means to a better life.

And we help facilitate this. Through media. Through everyday interactions. And through acknowledging that everyone we meet probably knows at least a few basic words. This is generally true in the US, but when I joined Peace Corps, I anticipated that adopting a new language would be a top priority. However, the Philippines has a rich Americanized past, one which has integrated the English language firmly into its society. Sure, many of the people I work with, mainly impoverish fisherfolk, don't speak a lick. But others, including many of my coworkers, are very skilled. So much so that when I can't think of a word in Tagalog, I use the English equivalent and assume that my counterparts or community members understand me. Hell, half the time I hope that someone else will speak to me in English so my brain can take a rest.

My mental struggle is over the sense of pride identified with language. I have come to appreciate a part of this as many Filipinos have exclaimed to me, "it brings me so much joy to here you speak our language." They genuinely care when foreigners take the time to immerse themselves in their culture, in their life. Even when I was in Bali, the warm look on people's faces when you said suksma (thank you) shared so much of their internal gratitude.

Whether its me sharing a bit of English vocab with my host family or an exuberant friend enjoying a playful conversation with me in Tagalog, the satisfaction I can see on their faces is something I will always hold dear. And it certainly helps keep my experiential studies going ;) Language is quite a powerful tool.

Survival

I struggled to find the words for this post as there have been so many emotions running through my head the past few days. Helplessness. Frustration. Sadness. Anxiety. Determination. Hope. Courage. Love.

As I stumbled out of my comfortable consolidation hotel Saturday morning, the Legazpi City landscape appeared unchanged. Minor agricultural damage. Trikes and jeepneys whizzing by. No sign of a catastrophic typhoon. I was thankful...and lucky. But as I began the hour trek north back home to Tabaco, I slowly began to feel the after effects of yet another natural disaster for this resilient country...

The top placemark indicates the location of my site. The bottom the location of Tacloban City, Leyte, one of the hardest hit areas. Although the typhoon stretched across 2/3 of the country, it was fairly centralized as the most severe damage was confined to those central islands.

The path of  typhoon Yolanda/Haiyan and the wind speeds experienced throughout the Philippines. Sources: Joint Typhoon Warning Center; National Centers for Environmental Prediction; National Statistical Coordination Board, Philippines; General Statistics Office Of Vietnam.

THE REALITY: the Philippines is a third world country with a predominantly coastal population and a diverse natural landscape. It acts as the first major land mass to receive tropical storms originating in the Pacific, one of the reasons why it commonly sees upwards of 20 storms/typhoons per year. These are only getting worse with climate change (i.e. Typhoon Haiyan this year and Typhoon Bopha last year). Additionally, the country's location in the Pacific ring of fire leaves it vulnerable to earthquakes (seen last month) and volcanic eruptions (seen earlier this year). The poverty distribution is extreme, not to mention the lack of resources available. And despite the resourcefulness of Filipinos, many are unable to afford quality housing and supplies, leading to the poor infrastructure we see. All of this contributes to the devastation seen last weekend, particularly in the Eastern Visayan islands of Samar and Leyte, two of the country's poorest islands.

A typical nipa hut made out of bamboo and nipa fronds. Many houses, particularly those in rural, coastal areas, are made of these materials. While beautiful, they are extremely vulnerable, especially when up against hurricane force winds.

The grim reality of this monster is unfolding as I type. The worst is over, but Yolanda/Haiyan unleashed an assault on the Central Visayan islands of Leyte, Samar, Cebu, Negros, and Panay. I'm thankful that all PC volunteers are now safe and accounted for. Unfortunately, I cannot say the same for some of the communities they left behind. Homes are destroyed. Thousands are dead. And survivors are wandering the streets in search of food, water, clothing, and shelter. And we call them crazy for looting? They're just trying to survive.

Natural disasters are common occurrences worldwide, and they seem almost inescapable since I've been living here in the Philippines. I understand the position of many of you, trying to grasp the severity of this from overseas. I was in the same predicament last year, witnessing the destruction of Hurricane Sandy and the Midwestern tornadoes. Sadly, much is still unknown about this calamity since internal communication networks have been damaged, thereby slowing information dissemination and relief efforts.

As much as I have come to understand the importance of religion in the Philippines, prayers are no longer enough. Action must be taken. Relief organizations have been extremely active thus far, preparing supplies and personnel to send to affected regions. Small donations can go along way here, so please take the time to support this amazing country and its beautiful, strong-willed people.

Break muna

Destination: Bali, Indonesia.

It's always nice to have a trip lined up as a Peace Corps volunteer. Something to look forward to on those dog days at site. I had been looking forward to this trip since a group of us started planning it in June, and on October 12, it finally arrived. 

7 days. 8 Peace Corps volunteers. 2 hospitable parents. 1 villa. 

2 days scuba diving. 3 days surfing. 1 day of art and culture. 1 candy land power hour. 

PHEnommmenal food. Shark, turtle, and cuttlefish spottings. A WWI wreck dive. An epic wave (to which I got destroyed). 

Balinese pants. A camel strip tease. A waterslide beer bong. And NO RAIN (I say this with enthusiasm since coming from the Philippines, this was truly a blessing). 

I was originally searching for a laid back, chill vacation. Something different from what we experienced last New Years. As our numbers increased, the more I thought this idea was a mere fantasy. But this trip wouldn't have been the same without our cohesive group. It offered everyone something different and in the end, everyone got out of it exactly what they needed. For me, it was that timeout from my "routine." A break muna as we say in the Philippines. A chance to remove myself from the life I had been accustomed to for the past year. 

As I sat around the dinner table my last night in Bali with my two friends Josh and Dan, we discussed this break muna and how this trip became more than we had ever anticipated. And at the perfect time. The following week was our MST conference, where our entire batch gathered to reflect and share on the past year and look ahead to our next one. 

For me, Bali set the tone for my MST and for my year ahead. My last one as a Peace Corps volunteer. Sure I wanted the time away to escape and in a way, to be reacquainted with western life. But it ultimately ended up being the opposite. Bali became more than a break muna, and reminded me that there is still so much more out there. More people to meet. More places to explore. More culture to soak up. In the Philippines and beyond.

 Our home for the week. Not too shabby thanks to Tito and Tita Crow

 The civet; its poop makes the world's most expensive coffee

 Jeff and our tour guide Wayan enjoying the civet coffee. Wayan wasn't a big fan

 Rachael, Russ, and Melissa (L-R) enjoying a nice stroll through the rice fields to our lunch spot, Sari Organic

 Waiting for the smoke to clear??

 A Balinese temple in Ubud

The Monkey Forest in Ubud. How many can you spot?

Routines

It’s very easy to fall into the day-in, day-out patterns of our busy lives. Wake up and grab a quick bite to eat before heading off to work or class, only to return to your home in the early evening. Maybe you mix it up and grab dinner with a friend or catch happy hour with some coworkers. Or maybe you hit the gym or go for a run before settling in for dinner, catch a primetime TV show or lounge with a favorite book before heading to bed. Repeat.

I was enjoying the fact that my life in the Philippines didn't lock me into a daily schedule. Constant nuances throughout my first year here kept me on my toes and sparked my curiosity. But it seems the times have finally caught up to me. Or maybe I have just caught up to the Philippines.

These past two months or so have flown by like no other, partly because I have developed a daily routine. Or so I think. To briefly walk you through…I typically wake up a little later these days (because my work allows me to). Sometimes I work from home; other days I will head to my Agriculture Office or the World Wildlife Fund office nearby. I work til 12 before heading home to have lunch prepared by my host family. Work concludes at 5, at which time I like to stop to grab pandesal (a bready wonder treat made by gods) for my afternoon merienda (snack). I try and workout at my house before cooking dinner for myself, then a little light reading or a TV show on my laptop before hittin’ the hay. Again…repeat.

Now, are routines a be all and end all evil? Not at all. A lot of times having a routine allows us to be incredibly efficient. Or provides us with some stability or continuity. Some of my most productive work has occurred in the past two months. I've designed four new proposals for upcoming projects (including my internship proposal for my Master’s), helped update the municipal fisherfolk database, and conducted several coastal cleanups in nearby barangays.  I've played in several local basketball tournaments, and had a few leisurely weekends with other volunteers and Filipinos. But for me looking back, it’s the feeling that that isn’t enough. That I could still be doing more. More work, more social activities, more cultural interaction.

Then I have a night like I did two weeks ago where you fully grasp that impact of what you’re doing and the appreciation others have for it. Once again, I was sharing my story as a Peace Corps volunteer.  Why I am here, what I do, how I live, etc. etc. The usual. This time with a bunch of basketball teammates after one of our games. I was repeatedly asked, “So why are you here?” I explain. But then I get, “So why are you STILL here?” I sat there a bit shocked because I had never been asked that before. But it didn't take me long to respond. “Because I want to be here. This is where I belong right now.” With that, my friends were stunned. Just the look on their faces gave me the most overwhelming feeling of humility, gratitude, and acceptance (I’m hoping it was that and not that we had knocked back one too many San Mig Lights ;)).

It is these moments that make routines not so routine. And that make ordinary days extraordinary.

I am now into my last 12 months of service. They say the time goes even faster now. Our daily routines always seem to make us say, “Jeez where did the time go?” I can guarantee I’ll be saying that when I COS (close of service) next year. Or years from now. “Wow my Peace Corps service is already over?!” Well…here’s to hoping I remember all those extraordinary days.

Body art and beach cleanups

For those of you who do not have a Facebook account or have not yet heard about my most recent venture, I got inked. AKA my first tattoo. I drew the design up months ago, and my Filipino friend and local tattoo artist Nico produced the finished product.

Nico hard at work. No pain no gain

The finished product, slightly red and swollen

For me, the tattoo symbolizes spirituality, family, growth and maturity, the Philippines and Peace Corps, and my winding camino. 

I was meaning to get the tattoo to mark my 1 year of service, but once again, July came and went before I knew it. Another month in the books. Hard to believe summer is dwindling down in the states and soon, kids will be heading back to school and snow will be on the ground (I know, I know...not what you want to think about right now. But I miss the snow!). With all the extreme weather I've heard about back home, the sporadic weather patterns have returned here in Bicol as well. Of course, that means rain. Thankfully, my new co-workers, counterparts, and I have been hard at work these past few weeks, allowing little downtime or boredom (except during brownouts :)) Today was the second of two coastal cleanups I have organized in local barangays this past week, and I recently received word that a third barangay is interested in having one in the upcoming weeks. These activities are great because they encourage community initiative and collaboration, while also promoting environmental awareness and solid waste management. Additionally, we will also be implementing the new municipal fisherfolk registration system (FishR) in Tabaco over the next few weeks. Feels good to be delegated more responsibility and given a chance to spearhead a lot of these activities. My new counterparts at the NGO (WWF - World Wildlife Fund) and the LGU have been very supportive and motivated, a drastic change from a few months ago.

Kids love to join in and lend a helping hand

My new LGU counterpart Louie giving a post-cleanup talk to students from a barangay high school

With a new batch of volunteers here, I am no longer one of the "new kids on the block." I've heard that this portion of service (between the 1 year mark and Mid-Service Training in October) is often the hardest for volunteers because we have reached the 1 year mark, volunteers question their work and impact so far, and the attention is now off of us and on the new trainees. But personally, I couldn't be happier with where things are at right now (despite this multi-day brownout that we have going on right now...I'm currently tapping into a food court's electricity). I'll be heading back to my training site in Bataan this weekend with Russ to visit our old host families, while hoping to share some volunteer wisdom and positive vibes with the new CRMers!

My new favorite Tagalog word: swabe (pronounced swah-bay) = smooth

An alternative space-time continuum (part two)

Squawking roosters. Barking dogs. Motorcycle engines. Claustrophobic jeepney and/or bus rides next to fighting cocks. Children playing with your hair (yes that means on your head, legs, and arms). Constant stares and glares, never loosing eye contact.

From a western perspective, privacy is seen as a right, not a privilege. An empty row of seats seems more appealing to us than one that is currently occupied by two strangers. Many people are afforded their own bedroom, instead of sharing one with other family members. Public transportation, such as buses and trains, aren't utilized as frequently as personal cars or taxis. All in all, we enjoy our personal space.

This was one of the biggest hurdles I had to overcome when I moved to the Philippines. And it is something that will never fully change. Filipinos are extremely welcoming and hospitable people, sometimes to a point where you think they are coming off rude (such as the "hey joe" references that I get on a daily basis, which refers to G.I. Joe's back in WWII when many Americans were stationed here). They go above and beyond to make sure that you are happy. The constant interaction was something I was not accustomed to. Maybe this is because Filipinos place an enormous value on family, to the point where you often see sons and daughters living with their parents well into their adult years and some even after they are married with children. Now, some may view this as being overprotective, etc. But Filipinos would only use one word to characterize this bond: love. They love and value their connections so much that they are willing to sacrifice their space to ensure the happiness of those around them. They don't care what is going on around them, who is rubbing against them at the supermarket or on the jeepney, or whether dogs are barking outside and keeping them up at night. Because lying right next to them or sharing a drink with them are those who are most important to them.

Three months ago, I moved out of my host family's home and into my own apartment. I wanted a little bit more space to myself and the opportunity to cook my own meals. But my new place is only 10 feet away from my host family. I didn't want to give up the valuable relationship I had with them by packing up my stuff and moving down the road. Over the course of my 8 months living with them, I learned the importance of sharing a wall.

 Jeepney ride next to a fighting cock. You can see the tight quarters

 My humble abode

 View from my front door into my living room (to the right) and the kitchen in the back

My kitchen

CR (or "comfort room", AKA bathroom)

My bedroom upstairs

The basketball hoop I built for my host family for Christmas. Very pleased with my craftsmanship, but more pleased with the use the kids are giving it. They'll play well after the sun goes down!

I can now tune out the dogs and the roosters (the rain helps). Children play with my leg hair on the bus. These are just daily occurrences. Yes, sometimes they are frustrating. Yes, I need to be able to have some time for myself. But I've found that our interpersonal communications are just as important as our intrapersonal ones. And that venturing out of my comfort zone, affording myself less personal space, allows me to appreciate the environments and people around me on a greater level.

One year in

One year. So many moments and memories swirl through my head today as I look back on my timeline as a Peace Corps volunteer. Hopping off the plane at 11:30 PM after 16 hours of flying surrounded by 69 "strangers" I'd barely gotten to know. Two physically and mentally exhausting weeks spent at Initial Orientation in Cavite. Two and a half months of intensive training (language, culture, and technical) in the Bataan province. Swearing in as volunteers at the US Embassy. A 12 hour night bus ride to an unfamiliar landscape that I would call home for the next two years. Time and trips spent with new friends. An ever-changing work environment that leaves me speculating what my role will be for the next 15 months.

Within uncertainty lies the opportunity for growth. 

Reflection can be an extremely powerful and effective tool. Where has the past year gone? Where am I headed?  How have I grown mentally, emotionally, spiritually, socially? Do I like these changes?

I am a person whose mind over thinks and analyzes every situation, sometimes to a fault. All in all, I only need to ask myself one question: am I happy?

The answer to that is an overwhelming yes.

An alternative space-time continuum (part one)

Alright folks, to quote Barney Stinson, Kenny Loggins, or my good friend Katelyn Anderson, daddy's back. I was on a brief blog hiatus due to some recent life events, most notably my parents' first visit to the Philippines! Their trip here was a great time for all of us to catch up, while proving to provide important satisfactions for both of us (besides getting to see each other!): for them - getting a chance to see my new life, where I live, where I work, my friends (both volunteer and filipino), my host family, and also visiting some unique sites here; and for me - getting to interact with Americans (other than other volunteers) for the first time in 10 months, our longest time apart in my life.

Reunited!

It truly amazes me how fast time has gone since I've arrived in Southeast Asia. When I look back at some of the events or activities I've been involved with during my time here, they feel like yesterday. Halloween. Mangrove plantings in Sorsogon. A weekend medical mission. New Years in Boracay. Solid Waste Management (SWM) IEC work with local university students. SCUBA certification. Aquaponics construction. Time has a different meaning to me each day though. Days can drag on, but the weeks usually fly by. As I type this, I am trying to fathom how 1 week of June is already over. It takes on a new meaning when I hear about the life of those of you back in the States (something I greatly appreciate as it helps me stay connected). Some of you are still in school, some maybe working part or full-time, balancing activities with family and friends, or a combination. All things I considered part of my life before, and to some extent still are..just in different ways. But now my calendar has a different structure, much different from the educational-based one I was used to. It is one I am continuously altering, but one that I am extremely content with because despite the "planner" in me, I am enjoying the freedom of not knowing what each day holds for me. It's those days that drive our greatest curiosity, surprise, laughter, adventure, and even heartache. But most importantly, they allow us to be real.

Time takes on a third meaning here in the Philippines. As I discussed in my last post, if its noon its lunchtime. If it's 5 pm at my host family's, its merienda time. That means drop what you are doing and eat. But this is not the case with everything. Many things here start much later (or not at all...). "Filipino time." A commonality most Filipinos would agree with but some take offense to. The reality that I have faced though is that if a meeting is schedule for 1 pm, it probably won't start until 2. If a basketball game is scheduled for 8 pm, tipoff will be at 9:30. Things are naturally pushed back, particularly those with an informal structure to begin with. I have even seen larger conferences starting an hour or two late because of participant or speaker delays. Punctuality is something we highly value in America, but often being "on time" in the Philippines means you're sitting around for an hour reading, texting, or sleeping. Still, meeting agendas and presentations usually manage to be accomplished within their allotted times. Alternative time management skills at their finest. The hardest part about "setbacks" like delays is the tendency to judge rather than to observe. Getting frustrated at the little things without seeing the bigger picture. This is a daily struggle.

A quick work update: election season concluded May 14 with my current mayor losing in a very close race. Her loss means that a majority of my office at the LGU will likely be terminated come July since they are job orders and not permanent positions. This includes my primary counterpart. Quite a few things are in limbo right now with the current mayor on her way out and the new mayor effective next month. Unfortunately, these changes have forced a sudden halt to some of the positive work we were doing at the Agriculture Office. I'm taking things in stride right now and thankful for my secondary work at Bicol University Tabaco Campus (BUTC), Tabaco National High School (TNHS), etc. keeping me active while our LGU changes take place.

And lastly, since I now have a computer again (thanks Mom and Dad), I thought I'd share a few more photos from the past few months:

Photo courtesy of PCV Kim

Photo courtesy of PCV Kim

SCUBA certification in Bohol (L-R: PCVs Laura, Josh, Russ, and me); photo courtesy of our dive instructor Jeremy

My counterpart Mark and I at Peace Corps PDM Training

Ali and I presenting some of our local work at a local CRM conference

Women's basketball clinic put on by Russ in Tinambac, Cam Sur

After Day 1 of aquaponics construction (ongoing)

Culinary delights

I mentioned last time that I'd like to expand on some of the nuances of life here in the Philippines. So what better way to begin than by examining one of staples of Filipino culture: food.

Always around. Always plentiful. Sometimes expensive (fruits and vegetables depending on the season). Sometimes extremely cheap (breads and local snacks). 5 meals a day. That's right...5. Breakfast, morning merienda (snack), lunch, afternoon merienda, and dinner. And always on time...when home cooked. "Filipino time" usually causes activities and events to be pushed back. If a meeting is set to start at 8 AM, it likely won't begin til 9 or 10 when participants show up. This is NOT the case with eating. If it's noon it's lunchtime. 7 PM usually marks dinnertime at my house. I have tried toying with these (i.e. working til 1 PM before heading home for lunch), but that usually results in colder food since it probably has been sitting on the table waiting for me.

Bicol is known for its spicy food. Most dishes have "sili" chili peppers with them. Mmmmm masarap ("delicious" in tagalog; trademark phrase from PCV Russ). I've found, at least with home cooking, that there are really only 6-8 traditional dishes, all with interchangeable parts. Change in vegetables. Fish vs. pork vs. chicken. Different sauces. Fried vs. boiled vs. sauteed. This varies throughout the Philippines though and I'm sure some volunteers would disagree with me.

Another culinary term that I'll elaborate more on in a future post is palutan. These are snacks served while consuming alcohol. It could be anything from a bag of chips to sisig (see below) to a whole fried fish. Many restaurants or bars will even serve complimentary palutan when a bucket of beer is purchased.

Rice, or kanin, is served with every meal. And often meals cannot be eaten without rice being present. I've cut down on my rice intake (hence why my waistline has shrunk), but still find it necessary to have a small amount with every meal. Weird but I can't really eat ulam (the main dish besides the rice) without it.

Now for some specifics...

Other staple foods: fish, pork, chicken, beef (rarity), squash, eggplant, tomatoes, onions, mung beans, okra, carrots, mangos, bananas, pineapples, apples, papayas, and coconuts.

Native Philippine items: kamote (similar to a sweet potato), petchay (chinese cabbage), kangkong (water spinach), sili (hot chili peppers), ampalaya (bitter gourd), rambutan (sweet, "spiky" fruit), langka (jackfruit), durian (extremely smelly!), balimbing (star fruit), guyabano (soursops), kalamansi (philippine lime; MUCH better than regular limes and can be put with virtually anything; also goes very well with tequila), dalandan (green orange), bayabas (guava), lansones, and yellow watermelon.

And finally, some local delicacies that I have had the "privilege" of trying (I have made it a goal to try everything at least once here):
- balut = fertilized duck embryo eating in the egg shell (I recommend eating this with the lights off)
- dinuguan = pig intestines, lungs, kidneys, etc. in a sauce of pig blood, chili, and vinegar (very grainy texture; consume after slightly inebriated)
- sisig = parts of pig face mixed with chili, kalamansi, and sometimes egg (often a palutan; one of my favorites!)
- calabao = water buffalo (extremely fatty)
- bicol express = very spicy stew made with some type of meat (usually pork), lots of sili, and coconut milk
- lechon = roasted suckling pig

Still haven't had dog and don't plan to unless I'm tricked into it or it's placed in front on me...

I'm planning on experimenting more with these ingredients when I move to my new apartment next month. If you're interested, see if you can find any of these items in your local supermarket's (Wegmans) international section.

Progress

Veterinarian. Architect. Photographer. Optometrist. Growing up, all of these crossed my mind at some point as potential career paths. I received my first veterinary book and look-a-like nutcracker as a Christmas gift way back in Penfield, probably when I was 9 or 10. I took a summer architecture course during high school, and I was locked into becoming an eye doctor up until Junior year of college. My own path, or, as this blog is appropriately titled, camino (a reference to the walk my Dad took almost 12 years ago), continually finds its way to add a new turn. I am no longer surprised, when I reflect back, to see the interesting situations I've gotten myself into here in the Philippines. They now seem like daily occurrences.

So it comes with no shock that I am now a certified SCUBA diver. Yes, this was not even on my radar screen two years ago. SCUBA diver? Andrew Wynne? You must be joking. The thought never crossed my mind...until I was assigned as a CRM volunteer in the Philippines. So here I was a month ago now observing an underwater paradise I'd only seen in dreams and the discovery channel. Couple that with one of the most pristine coral reef areas in the Philippines (Jagna, Bohol), 4 great friends, and some great Filipino food. Our last dive gave us the chance to observe a coral wall in a nearby MPA literally dropping off into an infinite abyss. After this past week, I have reached double digit dives. PC gave CRM volunteers the opportunity to become Reef Check certified, a tool that we can bring back to our communities in order to effectively manage, study and monitor the health of coral reefs. Mabini, Batangas, near the Verde Island Passage (one of the largest centers of biodiversity in the world), has been our home for the week.  On our third dive I was fortunate enough to see 2 SEA TURTLES, one green and one hawksbill!! Surreal experience. And such a relaxing activity. Unforeseen to fantasy to reality. I unfortunately do not have an underwater camera (yet...) but photos can be found on Facebook.

I checked another item off my new found bucket list in late February: swimming with whale sharks. Now, the name and the size (the whale shark is the largest living non-mammalian vertebrate) of these seemingly mythical giants is enough to discourage many from getting too close. But a bit more research with reveal them to be filter feeders, relying many on a diet of plankton. After spending 3 hours roaming the waters, our boat (myself, along with PCVs Russ, Dan, Chelsea, and Kathryn) started heading back to shore. My rash guard blew away in the breeze and our boat captain circled back to look for it...lost cause. Turned out to be a good omen though. While I lost my rash guard, our captain indicated that a whale shark had been spotted and we took off at full throttle. The experience was quite the adrenaline rush and much more intense than I anticipated. Our guide had us throw on our snorkel gear and on his signal jump in the water, throwing our faces into the deep as the "school bus" swam below. I say "school bus" because whale sharks can grow up to 40 feet long! The first one we spotted was smaller, maybe 20 feet, but as we again headed back to shore, our captain and guide spotted another one. Quite a lucky day! This time was even better since we were the only boat around. Russ, Dan, and I plunged back in with our guide, revealing a full grown whale shark 30 feet long! I felt like I could reach out and touch him, but after a few seconds he commenced our viewing by descending out of sight. The thrill on our guides face as we popped out of the water was amazing. Malaking malaki (very big) he yelled . He has been taking tourists our for over 20 years, yet he still gets a rush each day from sharing his environment with others.

Really quickly, let me return to my life at site as I have had some interesting developments these past few weeks. After returning from Bohol, the materials for my aquaponics project finally arrived!!!  I had been waiting for these for months now (not a surprise..), so it was a relief to be able to move forward with our plans. Continuing to keep my expectations low though. Just happy some progress has been made!  My office has a grain center and nursery set up in an upland barangay, so we are planning to construct the system there since it will be more feasible for daily monitoring. It is also the site of the future City Agriculture Office, which we hope will be finished by Christmas. I have also received some support from the local university, Bicol University Tabaco Campus (BUTC), for monitoring and evaluating the system after construction is completed.

Additionally, ideas have been flowing for my Master's thesis/internship. I am hoping to focus my work on city river restoration and management, specifically working with BUTC and the local SKs (sangguniang kabataan, or youth councils) to provide solid waste management options and reduce nutrient overload into the nearby marine environments (mangroves, coral reefs, etc.). Preliminary stage only right now. But this coming week is IST (In Service Training) for PC, part of which will focus on grant writing. Hoping to get some external funding for these projects. Crossing my fingers!

I'll wrap up this life update for now. Going to play basketball with some locals now before venturing up to another part of Batangas tomorrow for IST. Although we have all had our frustrating "moments" here, each day is filled with a new adventure(s), whether that be indulging in a new food, learning a new word, traveling to a new place (never knowing how long it will take). Planning on expanding on these cultural intricacies in future posts.

Hope winter is wrapping up for all you folks in the states. I'd love to share with you some of our dry season heat!

"I'm so happy that I am alive, in one piece and short. I am in a world of shit, yes. But I am alive.  And I am not afraid..."

The little things in life

The following was shared with me by a fellow CRM PCV here in the Philippines. It was written by a Returned Peace Corps Volunteer stationed in Cambodia, focusing on the ins and outs of life as a PCV. Don't think I could have said it better myself...

Dear Person Contemplating Joining Peace Corps,

I imagine that you’re at a transition point in your life. Perhaps you’ve just graduated, perhaps you’re going through a career change, perhaps you have an itch for something more that can’t be scratched. Whatever the reason, here you are: contemplating joining Peace Corps.

But should you? Is it right for you?

Honestly, you might not know that until you’ve arrived. You can research by reading books and official publications or by talking with current/returned volunteers, but everything you read and hear will probably tell you the same thing: every person’s experience is different. Your Peace Corps life will be uniquely shaped by your country, program, and site. 

I’d like to think, though, that there are a few things that are universal throughout the Peace Corps world, and those things tend all to revolve around how you yourself will change - for the better and for the worse - because of your time in Peace Corps.*

‘Sanitary’ will become an obsolete concept. You will eat on mats that you know are saturated in urine. You will prepare food on counters that also serve as chicken roosts. You will not have consistent/frequent access to soap. You will eat street food that is undoubtedly questionable. You will be dirty, dusty, and sweaty at all times. You will have mind over body battles to force yourself to bucket shower in the winter. Bugs, lizards, chickens, ducks, and mice will crap on everything. These things will be ok. You’ll adjust. The sterile environment of the States will become a distant odd memory or a constant fantasy.

Your body, though, might not adjust as quickly. You will have parasites and infections and illnesses that you had never heard of before training. You will be constantly constipated. Or go the opposite extreme. I hate to say it, but you will probably poop in your pants at least once. You will learn to vomit over a squat toilet and into a plastic bag during a bus ride. You will discuss your bodily functions openly and enthusiastically with other volunteers. No topic will be taboo.

The way you communicate will completely transform. Learning a language from scratch through immersion is a powerful experience. You will learn to have complex communications though expressions, gestures, and basic vocabulary. You will learn to bond with another human being through silence. You will answer the same basic questions over and over and over again. You may never achieve the ability to discuss ideas and concepts. You will develop a new English language which consists of pared down vocabulary and grammatical structures. You will actively think of each word before you speak. Your speech patterns will slow. You will have to define words whose meanings you had always taken for granted. You will learn to listen. 

Your concept of money will entirely alter. Paying more than $1 for anything will cause you to pause and question your purchase. You will understand value in the context of a different economic system. You will learn to barter, even on cheaper items. You will consistently feel as though you have been cheated on the price. You will be enraged by all prices upon returning to the States.

You will embrace the thrilling dichotomies of thrift versus splurge and ration versus binge. No one knows how to budget like a Peace Corps volunteer. And no one can binge like one.

You will be discontented with your work. You will wonder – and scream to the heavens – about the benefit of your presence. You will feel lost in unstructured expectations and crushed by promising ideas fallen to the side. Your expectations will fade into an unexpected reality. You will learn to celebrate small victories. You will look at mountains and see mole hills. You will try to tackle the impossible. Maybe you’ll succeed. Maybe you’ll just pick yourself up and take aim at another impossibility.

You will learn to do all of this through pure self-motivation. You will be the one to drag yourself out of bed and out the door. You won’t have anyone holding your hand or pushing your forward. Just you. You will become a stronger person for yourself, by yourself.

You will be a celebrity in your community. That status comes will hardships and benefits that will ineradicably change you. You will be the exception to the societal rules. You will be the foreigner, the one set apart. You will receive privileges and have special attention/status because of your nationality. You will always have eyes on you. You will have joined as an agent of culture exchange and understanding, but you will still find yourself falling into an ‘us versus them’ mentality. Use it. Consider it. Contemplate the value we place on people because of arbitrary characteristics. You will come away from your experience more attune to your own merits, to those that are deserved and to those that are given.

Your culture of personal space, one that maybe you have always taken for granted, will be challenged. You will wonder why you need an entire room to yourself while no one else even has a bed to himself. You still won’t want to give your room up. Privacy will be a privilege or a rarity, not a right.

You will lose all control of your emotions and be on an unpredictable roller coaster of extreme ups and downs. You will go from happy and confident to sullen and tearful by things as simple as ants in your candy or yet another child saying ‘Hello!’ Your highs will be high, but they will be fragile. Your lows will feel inescapable. Your family and friends in the States probably won’t understand this. Your isolation will force you to become your own support system. You will become aware of yourself in the context of solely being yourself.

Your government-issued friends will be your reprieve. The love and closeness you share with people back in the States won’t change, but it will be your fellow volunteers who understand. They will be friendships forged from necessity, and they will be deep and fervent.

You will witness a whole new way of life, and you will question your notion of necessity. You will consider your personal wealth, and people will constantly remind you of it. You will discover what your ‘needs’ are to live a productive, satisfied life. I hope you will remember that when you return to a culture of plenty.

You will be the biggest product of your Peace Corps work. You will change. And you will bring that change back with you.

*I insert a disclaimer: I believe the above assertions to be true for PC Cambodia, a program in its 6th generation of volunteers; I cannot speak with authority on other countries’ programs.

Ready to join?!

PC definitely isn't for everyone. We've joked since being here that you've gotta be a little bit "crazy" to do it. But what a thrill ride Sure it's been emotionally, physically, mentally, and even a bit spiritually challenging. There are days where I question my decision to join the Peace Corps, but then there are days that fully answer that same question. The best part is the little surprises, some unnoticeable until later, that creep into my day. I just finished constructing a basketball hoop for my host family (their Christmas present from me). Plywood, paint, and a rim. It has become a fixture in the neighborhood, bringing my neighbors together and getting them off the couch and outside. I was told the other day that my neighbor's eldest child was out playing ball. I had yet to meet him in my 5 months in Tabaco because he usually spent his days inside playing computer games. His parents were thrilled just to see him outside.

The complex world that we live in links together so many different systems...cultural, economic, ecological, social, etc. At many different scales. As we are currently discussing in my independent study at C of C (which you can read more about here: http://blogs.cofc.edu/resilience/), these interactions are often invisible to us at first glance. A farmer's cultivating practices could be contributing to the declining fish catch a fisherman is seeing, which in turn affects his daily life structure and the local economy, but also could lead to further environmental degradation that leaves the area vulnerable to future storms. Every decision we make is full of responses, some positive some negative.  So how can we make the most of our time by effectively seeing "the big picture" in order to better not only our own lives but of those around us as well? There isn't a simple answer to this question, but by picking up on these "little things," we might be making a bigger long-term difference, one beneficial for further generations. I probably won't see the change, if any, my basketball hoop has on my community. But at least I know I contributed to their happiness. And sometimes that's enough. If there is one thing my PC experience has taught me thus far, it's to appreciate these little things. That and bahala na.

Photo updates

From the past few months...

 Our finished product from the fiberglass boat making training, made from scratch

 Christmas time in Tabaco City

 Medical Mission in Sorsogon City with PCVs Dan, Laurenia, and Russ. Free medical and dental services provided to ~500 locals.

 My first surfing experience in Gubat, Sorsogon

Clear view of Mount Mayon from Legaspi City

 Our Boracay beach house view.  Is this real??

 A morning spent collecting mangrove propagules in a local barangay. Trash often collects in these areas from normal river flow, which can contribute to the deterioration of mangrove forests, a vital coastal habitat. 

360 degree view from the top of Mt. Manaet     

Just a friendly calabao (water buffalo)

Magellan's Cross in Cebu City

The Grand Parade at the Sinulog Festival in Cebu City

Also, if you're interested, I've included a link to my College of Charleston Independent Study blog on the right. This semester we are discussing the concept of resilience theory and how it applies to each of our environments. The blog was orchestrated by my professor as an informal way to share thoughts and experiences.

Enjoy!

Ringing in the New Year

Look how the time has flown! I apologize in advance for my lack of updates over the past month and a half. I am currently testing my resiliency and living a 1960s Peace Corps life: without technology (aside from my office computer which I am currently using to write this). Both my computer and iPhone are broken, forcing me to occupy my time elsewhere and accomplish daily tasks primarily through pen and paper. It's certainly been frustrating at times (especially as I continue with my graduate school work), but I am fortunate to have other volunteers who have made the WorldWide Web accessible to me every now and then.

But enough of the pity party. I will keep this post short, but will chronicle my experiences here over the past weeks. Sadly, I will be saving the pictures for later.

WORK: 2013 brought about changes in my office, starting with a reorganization of projects. Our aquaponics system is temporarily on hold due to budget issues. This is a common issue here and one that will (hopefully) be resolved soon.  The step-by-step process of the LGU is very tedious and time-consuming. In the meantime, we are currently focusing our attention on constructing a mangrove nursery on the Natunawan Spit. The layout is completed and construction of a bahay cubo, well, etc. will (hopefully) begin in the next few weeks. I also recently got approved to begin teaching/assisting with an environmental education class at one of the local high schools, and I am organizing some events with other PCVs for the annual Magayon (beautiful in Bicolano) Festival, a provincial festival that commemorates the Mayon volcano.

LEISURE: Christmas 2012 was celebrated at my host family's house. My ate's (pronounced 'ah-tay') extended family came over and the day was filled with food, games, drinking, dancing, and of course, videoke. The lead up to Xmas was much different from what I am used to. Filipinos celebrate Simbang Gabi, a 9-day stretch of morning masses (usually 3 or 4 AM) culminating on Xmas Eve, with the final mass held around 10 pm. Afterwards, families gather for Noche Buena, a midnight Christmas feast followed by the opening of presents.

New Years was spent in Boracay, one of the biggest tourist spots in the Philippines and home to some of the best (rated) beaches in the world. Myself, along with 12 other volunteers, rented a beach house for 5 days on Tambisaan Beach, a smaller, quieter beach on Boracay. We had an epic time!  Highlights: first afternoon tour of the island, snorkeling, sarong party, our very own haka, NYE fireworks, skinny dipping, spirit animal painting, beach volleyball, great food (particularly indian and greek), and for me personally, a 4 AM NYE barefoot entire island (between 5-8 km probably) walk home...painful the following morning.

Since NYE, I climbed my first Philippine mountain, Mount Manaet, about 30 minutes away from me. It is an island mountain around 300-400 meters high, offering unbelievable 360 degree views of the province of Albay and the Pacific Ocean. I also attended the Sinulog Festival in Cebu a few weeks back. It is one of the biggest festivals in the Philippines commemorating the birth of Christianity when Magellan arrived in Cebu in 1521. Millions of people descend on the city to witness the event. The Grand Parade, which occurs on the last day of the festival (Sunday), lasts the whole day and features bright colorful costumes and native dances. My hostel was located right on the parade path, making it easy for me to enjoy. Sinulog also gave me the opportunity to see other volunteers, all of whom I hadn't seem since our swearing-in ceremony. Last weekend, I attended my first Filipino wedding with a fellow volunteer. Despite being spoken in Tagalog or Bicol, the ceremony was almost identical to one you would find in the states. The reception was held at Cagsawa Ruins, a local tourist draw and historical site. It was my first wedding where no alcohol was present, and the majority of the time was taken up by eating and speeches. On the flip side, it was the first wedding that I've attended (I might be wrong) with a bouquet and garter toss. With hardly any participants, and what was probably staged, my fellow volunteer and I caught them. Filipinos are always trying to be match-makers. Upon introduction, the two most common questions are "what is your religion?" and "are you married?" If your answer is "no," it is almost always followed by "why not?"

Maraming (many) activities coming up in the next few months. I'll try and make my next post more punctual.

Ingat palagi.